Showing posts with label Harpy Hour. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Harpy Hour. Show all posts

Friday, April 10, 2015

Day 8 - Last Night on the Amazon

After our daily ‘power nap,’ we met in the 3rd deck lecture room for our last map meeting - to plot the tributaries and villages we explored.  We covered 680 miles in the big boat (340 from Iquitos, up the river, to just past Bretaña), plus another 150 miles on tributaries by skiffs.  

  • Iquitos (Sat pm)
  • San Joaquin (Sun 9am-11am)
  • Yarapa Creek (Sun 3-6pm)
  • Supay Creek (Mon 6:30am-8am)
  • Supay Creek & Auca Yacu village (Mon morning)
  • Faucet Creek (Mon afternoon)
  • Atun Poza (Tues 9:30am-11:30am)
  • Bretana, Pacaya River (Tues 4:30pm-7:30pm)
  • CP2 Yana Yaku blackwater lake (Wed am)
  • Dorado Creek (Wed afternoon)
  • Requena (parked Wed pm)
  • Yanallpa Creek (Thur 6:30am-8:30am) - wildlife sightings in all directions!
  • Iricahua Creek (Thur 10am-11:30am) - first/BIG rain
  • San Jose de Paranapura (Thur 4pm-6pm) - Shaman
  • Nauta market (Fri 6:30am-8am)
  • Jungle Walk @ location called Casual (Fri morning)
  • Float plane over Confluence (Fri 12:30pm)
  • Panguana (Fri 5pm-5:45pm)
  • Iquitos (Sat 8:30am)

Remember, the Amazon River is over 4,000 miles; so there is still a lot left to see!

Completed our expedition's list of wildlife sightings.  I remain ASTOUNDED by the volume we saw!  In addition to the bugs, snakes, fish and mammals spottings, I saw more bird species in my 7 days here, than I’ve seen in my life!  

Boarded the skiffs for our final ride on the Amazon River.  The trees and birds along the river were no longer nameless to us - thanks to our guide’s teachings this week.  

Ferry - hammocks lined the top deck and cars were on the front bottom deck
Segundo and Jair showed us one last pygmy marmoset, and we headed back to the big boat with the sun setting - behind us.
Jair and Last Sunset on the Amazon!
Jair 
Last Sunset on the Amazon!
Before dinner, we found three tipping envelopes in our cabins.  Thankfully, our pre-trip paperwork offered guidelines.
Harpy Hour included a new band (same 7 crew members plus Renzo).  This band was named 'The Yellow Anacondas' in honor of today’s sighting in the jungle!

Between Harpy Hour and dinner, Renzo gave us a short slideshow of photos he had taken of us this week.  He then presented each of us with an International Expeditions flash drive of these photos!  ...While we had been busy taking photos of the Amazon, Renzo had thoughtfully taken photos of us.  I was quite touched by this.

At dinner, free red and white wine flowed throughout the meal.  After dessert, the boat’s full crew (of 16) was introduced to us, and they then came to each of us and shook our hand or hugged us.  There was a captain, first mate and 2 other navigators, 2 skiff drivers, 3 cabin stewards, 2 waiters, a bartender, an operation manager, two naturalist guides and our expedition leader.

Wednesday, April 8, 2015

Day 6 Swimming & Piranha Fishing

No Insect Repellant 

Our crew does not use insect repellant.  Instead they cover exposed skin with long pants, long sleeves and neck/face wraps.  I learned repellant (particularly Deet) is corrosive to metals (camera equipment, jewelry, etc) and bad for plant and animal life.  Yesterday, Martin said his watch melted to his skin.  We speculated that this may have been a combination of the DEET and/or the heat.  Also, I was unable to touch last night's caimans because I had repellant on...  

And so,  I too stopped using insect repellant.  I figured I could handle the bites I might get in my remaining 4 days.



Wildlife

On the way to our swimming destination, we passed CP1 (Check Point 1/Ranger Station) and saw a variety of wildlife:
Ranger
Old Ranger Station/CP1

Black Collared Hawk 
Red Howler
Red Howler

Red Howler - leaping to another tree
Capped Heron
working on ID
Flame-tailed Pondhawk
__ - spotted by me!  Reportedly rare to see in Peru
Great Potoo!! (nocturnal and related to Nightjar).  Very far away and incredibly camouflaged!  Parked skiff under one last night, in the dark; but unable to see/photo it, due to darkness.
Great Potoo!
Cane Toad
Black-capped Donacobius
Black-capped Donacobius
Black-capped Donacobius
Neotropical Cormorants
Cocoi Heron
Woodpecker

Swam in the Amazon!

It was at the Reserve's Check Point 2 ranger station on the Yana Yaku blackwater lake accessed by skiff from the Ucayali River (connected to the Amazon).  Despite all my pre-trip reading and friends' cautions about the candiru fish, parasites and predators... our expedition leader (Renzo) was first in.  Nancy (from Fredericksburg, VA) went next; and I was third in!  (I did not have a bathing suit; so I jumped in with my clothes on.)  Less than half of our 20 swam that morning.  Logan was the only male. The water was fantastic!  Refreshing, perfect temp - and clean!
Ranger station (CP2) at Yana Yaku blackwater lake.  Where more than half of our group of 20 waited for the swimmers.


Piranha Fishing!

We took the skiffs to Dorado Creek, off the Ucayali River.  - and under some trees to this former flatland forest now covered in water.  The air was quite still and stuffy because of the tree/vegetation volume. 

Wonderfully Reflective Water
We used the same kind of simple sticks and fishing lines we saw in yesterday's village.  Beef tenderloin was the bait.  With one lesson, I caught a fish right away, as did others.  We fell into a competition with the other skiff about who could holler louder and more often with each catch.  Once I felt a hint of competition, my squeamishness about fishing went out the window; and it was ON!  LOL!  When we finished, and the two teams compared catches, I teased the other team about stopping at the market and buying their fish!
Red Bellied Piranha
Julio & Dennis
Jair & Martin
Piranha Fishing, Dorado Creek

Tuesday, April 7, 2015

Day 5 Sloths, Monkeys, Then After Dark

Pacaya Samira Reserve 
The Pacaya Samira Reserve and is bordered by the Marañón River to the north, the Ucayali River to the south and a third river to the west. It consists of 5 million acres protected by 60 rangers who live there for 40 days at a time.  We are exploring the southern perimeter. 

Our guides explained this is a Reserve, vs. a Park - the difference being that people live inside the Reserve.  Our guide (Segundo) told us there are 208 villages and 92,000 people at the Reserve.  92 villages (24,000) people live inside, and the remaining live outside in the edges called buffers.  95% of the Reserve is flat forest; so the mammals have a hard time when water is high like now. 

Sloth Day!
On mid morning skiff ride at Atun Poza we saw LOTS of sloths.  I think we counted 9!





We found Dr. Seuss' Lorax!
Monkeys
On mid morning skiff ride at Atun Poza we also saw several species of monkeys!

Post trip note:  We saw 9 of the area's 15 species of primates!
  • Pygmy Marmoset
  • Saddle-backed Tamarin
  • Night/Owl Monkey
  • Dusky Titi Monkey
  • Monk Saki
  • Brown Capuchin
  • Common Squirrel Monkey
  • Bolivian Squirrel Monkey
  • Red Howler Monkey
Monk Saki
Saddle Back Tamarin
Spider Monkey
Spider Monkey
Spider Monkey
Festive Parrot
Red Capped Cardinal
Horner Screamer - Amazon's version of Canada Goose!
Amazonian King Fisher 
Straight Billed Woodcreeper
Frogs

Sunset/After Dark (Pacaya River)
Tonight we park the skiff in the middle of giant lily pads (Victoria Amazonica).  Our boat driver and guides pass out hot ginger tea and snacks at sunset.  After sunset it is Mosquito Happy Hour (!), followed directly by the arrival of many bats.  Many bats.
  • long-nosed bats
  • jamaican fruit eating bats
  • fishing bats  
Bug Band!
<To my sister, Jenny!>: The Bug Band performed flawlessly!!! Here is a second link from the Bug Band at Dusk (aka Mosquito Happy Hour!)
Photo by Renzo
Caimin.  Segundo scooped it right out of water, in the dark & in moving skiff!
Eyes glow read - just like I read about!
This was a White Caiman.  Other two species are Black & Dwarf.
Stargazing
Stargazing that takes my breath away. The guides tell us they use the southern cross there, not the north star to navigate.  Makes sense.  I laid on my back to take in the full night sky.  

On the skiff ride home, we pull the skiff up under a Great Potoo (nocturnal bird and related to the nightjar) perched high in a tree.  I am in awe at the skiff driver's ability to night-navigate through the creeks, with trees limbs and night wildlife, back to the river and big boat.

Anti-Malaria Pills
Few of us are still taking these.  I am though.  Several were ill (top & bottom ill) and attributed it to their pills.  I have had no side effects, and suspect it may be because when given the choice between the two, I chose the one (Malarone) with fewer/diminished side effects.

Hot Sauce
At the end of every dinner’s buffet,  there is freshly made hot sauce or pico de gallo.  Each night it’s a different color and heat; and I have enjoyed them all.  Colleen and Kim from Canada speculated this was intended as a natural flush of potential parasites from our bodies.  This was later confirmed by the crew.
Dung Beetles are ALL over the top deck's floor when we wake up.  The crew sweeps early morning; so most guests never see them.  I was fascinated with the quantity and daily recurrence!
Moth on my patio window
Link to next post:  Swimming & Piranha Fishing!