Monday, April 6, 2015

Day 4 Supay, Village Visit

On top deck again just after 4am - too eager for sleep.  Wanting to see and savor the sights, sounds, smells and sensations.   
Like yesterday, one of our guides (Segundo) joined me on deck.  Respectful of my solitude; but on the ready as I have questions about what I see, hear and contemplate... There is SO much to assimilate! 

While I am without internet connectivity, I continue to transcribe field notes to my laptop for later googling and/or uploading to my blog.  

Besides the speciations, ecosystem and Riberneros’ (locals’) way of life, I am taken by the business model of this expedition company.  International Expeditions rivals Ritz Carlton on anticipating guests’ needs.  We are briefed each morning and evening on the itinerary, what to wear, what to be careful of and what to expect. The activities seem well organized and for appropriate durations.  The moments are maximized; so there is little (no?) waiting, and just enough time in between (for showers, naps, cocktails, photo editing, etc.)  The meals (volume, variety, taste) have been ideal and exceeded expectations.

This 680 mile roundtrip cruise alone, would just be another cruise... It is the addition of the skiffs that make ALLLL the difference.  The skiffs put us within our binos/cameras’ range to see and learn.  The boat is also equipped with kayaks.

Supay Creek, aka Devil’s Creek (6:30am-8am)

This morning we are offered an optional early morning skiff ride.  About half sleep in, and the rest of us enjoy early morning sightings.
Limpkin?
Yellow-Tufted Woodpecker
Yellow-Tufted Woodpecker
Bactris
Monday morning traffic.  6:45am.
need ID

Renzo - is our Expedition Leader.  He is with us spotting wildlife and in addition to our two Naturalists.  Renzo is an Italian born in Peru.  He speaks (at least) Italian, Spanish and English. Has vast and varied bird, field research, travel and tourism experience. His education is pertinent, including his masters in environmental locations.  But most, he absolutely loves his country - the people, animals and incredible diversity of biomes/life zones found here.  He shares this in enthusiastic, succinct doses, which enables us to contemplate what we are learning.  For me, I am re-organizing what I read pre-trip, with what I am seeing and learning. 

Botflies - Speaking of pre-trip reading on travels along the Amazon, I asked my guide if he ever got botflies, and he said yes - five times.  [After trip note, I came home botfly-free.  I thought (hoped?!) one particular bug bite might be a botfly...; but it wasn't.]
Roadside Hawk
Paper Wasp
Fresh and different juices each morning.  Cantaloupe was my favorite!
need ID


Can you spot the Sloth?

Sloth
Macaws
Plumbeous Kite
Iquana
Slate Coloured Hawk

Aucu Yacu Village

Enjoyed 15 minute ride by skiff down Supay Creek (north of Requena) to Auca Yacu village.  The village was situated on highland and seemingly unaffected by the water from the Andes moving down into the Amazon basin.  Conversely, almost all of the lowland homes we’ve seen have succumbed to being swallowed by the river’s rise.

We were introduced to the (female) village leader: Jacqueline. Segundo told us she has the village’s grass entry trimmed periodically - by machete.  

Village leader: Jacqueline
Segundo & Renzo
Duck in the village
One of two seen the whole trip.  The other was a muscovy.

We were introduced to a family with 5 kids and invited into their home.  Saw their kitchen, sleeping rooms (with mosquito netting) and we 20 with two guides sat in their ‘living room’ along with the family, other relatives and a baby chicken perched on a bucket.  Me, being who I am, I was as/more fixated on the bird than the people.







Henry, of Auca Yacu
Henry of Auca Yacu
 
Face Tatooed Man & 'Selfie' of Renzo

When it comes to starting a family, men may not marry until they can build a canoe.  Vital, since all transportation is via water.  (No roads.  For hundreds of miles.)

Our guide inquired about weapons (spear and 5 f’ bow and arrow) over the front door.  The weapons are used for hunting, but could also be used for protection if needed.  

The attire was what we wear (flip flops, sneakers, shirts, shorts and skirts).  Likewise the indoor/outdoor house had a TV and stereo.  The roof was beautiful, and hand made.  I didn't take a photo; but it looked just like the roof I photoed on Day 8's visit to the Shaman. 




Love of Country - Sonia (our guide for Saturday morning’s Lima tour) told us voting in Peru is mandatory.  Citizens are fined if they do not vote.  Likewise, when we visited this school, the kindergarteners and elementary school children sang their national anthem to us.  Our guides then asked us to sing the USA’s national anthem to the children! 

Later, I asked Segundo how mandatory voting is enforced among the Riberenos (river people - who may never go to cities).  He said all children must get yellow ID card.  When they turn 18, they get a green ID card.  No business can be conducted in the larger villages without this ID card.  That ID card is also used to vote.  Voting is no longer required in later years (ages above 70).



Photo by Renzo
Photo by Renzo




Student inspecting the donated school supplies

Hokey Pokey.  Photo by Renzo
Photo by Renzo
School

Handicrafts for sale
I bought a purse for 20 soles ($6 USD) & water bottle holder for 10 soles ($3 USD)
  • Villages are vetted; and visits are rotated to broaden experiences
  • Portions of the expedition companies revenues build/buy water pump/filtration systems for the locals.  
  • Our school supply donations are not given by us directly to the children, and instead are given to rotating village PTAs (Parent/Teacher Associations).  Not only does this avoid children mobbing donors, but it avoids creating expectations of handouts.  As I understand it, the villages reciprocate/earn the donations - by hosting our visits and teaching us a little about their lives. 
River was over floor of vacant (abandoned?) Eco Lodge
(seen on our way back from Village Visit)

Faucet Creek (4pm-6pm)

Skimmers
Photo by Renzo
Sloth, Three-Toed

need ID
Kiskadee
Tropical Kingbird?
Oropendola, I think




Peregrine Falcon - spotted by me; and only one we saw on this trip.
World's fastest land animal
Macaws are so social - sharing the tree with other species!

Hoatzin (pronounced Watson)
(aka Stink Bird because of their digestive system)

Sunset (north of Requena, Peru on Rio Ucayali)
Sunset (north of Requena, Peru on Rio Ucayali)
Harpy Hour and Battle of the Bands
The crew and bartender played Peruvian music again at 'harpy' hour. ('Harpy' as in the harpy eagle.)  This time, the crew had different vests and insisted they were a different band!  The lead singer (also one of our guides) told us there will be a battle of the bands, where we will vote for our favorite band at week’s end!
Rum & Pineapple Juice

2 comments:

  1. You love the birds, I love the government info you posted. Peru is one of a few countries that have compulsory voting, and one of those that enforce that law - I was aware of Australia's compulsory voting law, but even though I have been to Peru, I was not aware of Peru's law. Thanks for educating all of us, about both the birds and laws.

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  2. Thanks for your nice comment. I was unaware of compulsory voting - any where. It fascinated me! And I'd like to hope it might foster keeping citizens engaged - and valuing (protecting) their country's independence.

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